Monday, February 19, 2007

Happy Seollal (Lunar New Year)!

Happy Seollal! I spent the weekend with my friend Catherine, celebrating Seollal (Lunar New Year) with her family in Tongyeong (pop. 140,000), a small city by Korean standards on the southern coast of the country.

Here were are at the Express Bus Terminal in Seoul on Saturday morning. That's our bus behind us. Tongyeong or bust!It took us about 6 hours to get there. The traffic was pretty heavy because of the big holiday, but it kept moving the whole time. It was drizzly and foggy for most of the ride, so it was difficult to see the scenery.

Saturday evening, Catherine and I helped her mom cook food for the next day, and then her dad drove us all around the area. The whole time I was there, her parents couldn't remember my name, so they just called me "chin-gu" which means friend. That was fine with me. Here are Catherine and her mom and dad at one of the lookout points.Here's a panoramic view of the islands off the coast. Thanks, Ted, for fusing the images together for meCatherine's mom had been given a box of oranges as a Seollal gift, and she was very pleased with them, so she asked me to take a picture. These aren't just any oranges, though. They're special, huge oranges that are grown on Jeju Island, way off the southern tip of Korea. They sell for about $10 an orange. Her mom gave me one of them to take home with me. I plan to take it to school to share with Joy since I tend to get sick from eating oranges. I was really touched by the gift, though, and have to say it's the prettiest orange I've ever seen.Saturday night Catherine's dad wanted to talk to me because he'd never actually met a foreigner before. He doesn't speak any English, so Catherine had to interpret. He wanted to tell me all about Korean customs and politics. He seems to think that all Western cultures are pretty much the same, much like many Americans think that all Asian cultures are pretty much the same. I realized at that point that I was not only representing my family and community and country, but to this man, the entire Western world! That's a lot of responsibility.

Sunday was the actual New Year's Day. Catherine's parents got up early and set up a table in honor of their ancestors and bowed before it. Catherine and I were still asleep, but they left the table set up so I could see it and take some pictures. It was a really beautiful display of fresh and dried fruit, fish, rice, makoli (rice wine), and other food. We ate a wonderful breakfast of some of the food we had helped Catherine's mom prepare the night before--fish, rice, vegetables, and soup. Some of Catherine's aunts, uncles, and cousins showed up at the house. It was really funny to see their reactions when they noticed a foreigner in the house. Several of them actually did a double-take. Catherine's middle school aged cousin was the funniest. She looked at me, ran in another room, peeked her head around the door, said hi, giggled, and then disappeared again.

The men went to the ancestors' grave for a memorial, and the women stayed back at the house. We ate some more, cleaned up, ate, watched tv, ate, slept, ate, and then Catherine and I decided to go out for a walk. We ended up taking a walking tour of the whole city. The weather was beautiful, and it was a really enjoyable afternoon.

Our first stop was at the fish tanks by the harbor. Much of the country's fresh fish comes from the area around Tongyeong, and the city's economy depends largely on the fishing industry. Here, Catherine looks into one of the massive holding tanks for freshly caught fish.And here the fish looks back at us!Our next stop was Chungryeolsa, a shrine dedicated to Admiral Yi Soon-shin, a naval leader of the late 1500s. He is beloved and revered by Koreans for being victorious in all twenty-some-odd naval battles he commanded, including victories over the Japanese, and for the innovation of turtle ships (more on that topic later). Tongyeong is especially proud of Admiral Yi Soon-shin because several of the battles happened in that region.

Here we are on the grounds of the shrine. The trees behind us are special camellia trees that are over 300 years old.And here we are walking up the steps on the shrine grounds to the gated entrance to the shrine itself.
Here's the inside of the shrine.
Next we went to Saebyeong-gwan, which was the naval command center of Korea's southern provinces from 1597 to 1896. This particular structure was built in 1603 and last renovated in 1973.From Saebyeong-gwan, we continued our walking tour and passed this stone guardian figure. Guardian figures have been used in Korea for centuries to ward off disease and evil spirits from villages. I kinda see a resemblance between the two characters in this picture.Next we walked down to the harbor and saw a replica of the famed Korean turtle ship! Turtle ships were used from the 15th to 18th centuries and are credited for aiding Korean victory over the Japanese in sea battles. I'm all for turtle ships.Here's the head of the "turtle" with two seagulls sitting on its nose. (No one can tell me what kind of turtle it's supposed to be. If you ask me, it looks a little like the luck dragon from The Neverending Story.)
Inside the turtle ship is a statue of our dear friend, Admiral Yi Soon-shin. Here Catherine and I are doing our Admiral impressions.
And here we're trying on traditional naval hats inside the turtle ship.From the turtle ship, we walked along the harbor to Nammangsan Park. Here are the fishing boats along the way.Nammangsan Park is the hill in the background of this picture.From Nammangsan Park there was a beautiful view of the city, islands, and mountains. Here's a view of the harbor.This is another panorama that my friend Ted created from three separate photos that I took, including the harbor shot above. Thank you again, Ted!Finally we headed back to Catherine's parents' house for dinner, shown here. Notice the fish head soup. Yummy!After dinner we went out with some of Catherine's friends from middle and high school for drinks and more dinner. They were really fun but spoke about as much English as I speak Korean, so our conversations were limited. Catherine was a good interpreter, but mostly, I just listened to them speaking to each other in Korean. We boarded the bus this morning to return to Seoul. It was another 6 hour drive. The traffic was heavier than it was on Saturday but never completely stopped. I'm glad to be back to my apartment, but I'm also really thankful for the experience this weekend, for a glimpse into a Korean family's life during the holidays, for a tour of a new place, and for friends who have opened their lives to a stranger. I hope to be able to return the hospitality shown to me someday . . . or to pass it on.

Friday, February 16, 2007

새해 복 많이 받으세요

Happy Lunar New Year!! I'm off with Catherine to her hometown first thing in the morning. I'll be back on Monday.

새해 복 많이 받으세요
(Saehae bok manhi baduhseyo, which means "Happy New Year!")

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Happy Valentine's Day!

It's been another busy week. How can it possibly be Wednesday night already? I went out with my friends Tuesday evening after work. Joy's daughter Chloe came along with her mini Polaroid camera, so we took a couple fun shots.

First, here I am with Joy and Catherine.

And here with Catherine and Mark.

Earlier this week I did a little scavenger hunt around Seoul and put together Valentine's Day goody bags with foreign candy for Joy, Catherine, and Chloe. Here are Joy and Catherine with their goodies. The photo was their idea. (Admire my bulletin boards in the background.)
I like holidays because they're a great excuse to do art projects. I love art projects, aside from the fact that my classroom looks like a natural disaster area by the end of the day. Here are some of my angels showing off their Valentine's butterflies.

Working hard or hardly working? It's hard to tell.

In other news, I went back to the endodontist on Tuesday. My tooth still hasn't healed enough to finish the work that needs to be done, but most of the time, it feels fine these days. I go back again in two weeks. 19 appointments: $84.31.

This weekend is Seolnal, the Lunar New Year, which is one of the biggest holidays in Korea. Catherine has invited me to go with her to her parents' house in the far southern part of the country and spend the holiday with them. It'll be new territory for me. I'm excited about seeing another part of the country and also getting an inside look at a Korean holiday.

The bad news is that I feel like I'm coming down with a cold. It's no surprise because it's been going around for about a week and a half now. I've also had a couple students come down with pink eye this week. It has me disinfecting the tables, chairs, scissors, glue sticks, crayons, doorknobs, and everything else in the classroom that is touched by small hands.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

On Top of the World (or at least a big rock)


I inaugurated my new hiking boots (Christmas present from Mom and Dad) today. I've been wearing them around town to break them in, but this was their first trip up a mountain, and they did their job very well. It was a beautiful, sunny Saturday with the temperature close to 40. I took the Seoul subway as far north as it goes. I was about 20 miles from North Korea. I headed up this direction because it was new territory for me and because it's the area where my dad was stationed in the army in the 70s. I wanted to see what it looked like. I didn't, however, go near the army posts. It was still interesting to see the landscape and think that 30+ years ago, he was looking at the same mountains.

There was a great mountain park within easy walking distance from the train station. First, here's the entrance gate to the park. (I actually turned around and took this picture on my way down the mountain, looking back uphill and into the park.)

I followed a trail halfway up the mountain to a little Buddhist temple. One of the many things I love about Korea is that temples and mountains almost always go together. I like to visit both, and I especially like to photograph both, so it's like a two-for-one deal for me! Here's the temple.

One section of the temple is built under this huge rock. Notice the entrance in the bottom left corner of the picture.

They were having prayers in the temple under the rock when I got there. I generally don't like to take pictures during religious services, but as I stood there watching, a woman kept motioning toward me, saying, I think, that I should take a picture. I was sure to turn the flash off, but I was so anxious about potentially disrupting the prayers that I moved the camera too soon, hence the blurriness. Here's what it looks like on the inside, with a monk praying at the altar.

Also under the big rock is an artesian well. Here's a dragon who gives water.
From the temple, I continued up the mountain. The trail started to get a little more difficult. The only indication that it's even supposed to be a trail is the railing in some places.
Here's the view from 3/4 of the way up.

And, of course, the view from the top, looking back down the valley that I hiked up.

The photo at the top of this post is from the top of the mountain, looking down on the world. I got a really late start on my hike today, so by the time I made it to the top, I didn't have enough time to continue along the ridgeline and had to go back down the way I came so I'd be back in town before dark. I definitely plan to get an earlier start and go back again someday.

I'm a real wimp when it comes to cold weather. Even though it's been an extremely mild winter, I haven't been hiking in a while. On my way back down the mountain, my legs were starting to feel like spaghetti. Not a good sign of things to come, I thought. Rather than heading straight home after my hike, I decided to give my aching muscles a break at a big "jjimjilbang" (public bathhouse) in Seoul. This is another thing I love about Korea. I ate a great dinner (dolsot albap=rice with veggies and fish eggs served sizzling in a hot stone bowl), soaked in the hot tubs for a while, sweated in the salt fomentation room (you lie down on a bed of salt rocks in a very hot room), and then soaked the sweat off in the hot tubs again. My legs are thanking me after that tough climb this afternoon!

I have a couple more photos, but blogspot is being tempermental and won't let me add them tonight, so I'll try again tomorrow. It's well past bedtime for this tired but very happy hiker.

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

S'mores!

After making rice krispie treats with questionable marshmallows last week, I decided on my next trip to a foreign grocery store to splurge on a big bag of REAL marshmallows. I was talking with my Korean friends about the joys of marshmallows when one of them asked me what was going on in pictures and movies she's seen of kids sticking marshmallows in campfires. It occurred to me that s'mores are one of the finer points of American culture, and I'd be doing my Korean friends a huge disservice by not sharing it with them.

Originally, I was just going to have Joy, Catherine, and Joy's middle-school-aged daughter Chloe come over after school for a snack. However, we're now teaching until 9:00 every night, and by the time we're finished, we're ready for dinner, not marshmallows. This morning I made a huge pot of minestrone soup and invited everyone over for dinner tonight. They always like it when I make Western food--or at least they're really polite, eat it, and say they like it. The soup turned out pretty well, but the s'mores were the highlight of the evening. (Since I know several children read my blog, I just have to say this: Kids, don't do this without your parents in the kitchen!)

Joy, Chloe, and Catherine concentrate on toasting the marshmallows to perfection:
Yours Truly expertly pieces the s'mores together while leaving the gas range unattended in the background: Based on the smiles, I'd say s'mores were a hit.
Joy took this cool reflection shot of her, Chloe, and me with the city out the window.Good friends. Good food. Good fun.

Sunday, February 04, 2007

Happy Birthday to Dad! Happy Anniversary to Me!

Happy Birthday, Dad! I hope you have a good day. Go, Bears!

Today also marks 1 year since I stepped off the airplane for the first time in the Republic of Korea. What a year! I went out with my friends on Friday night to celebrate. Life is good.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

G is for GROUNDHOG

I think I was about 12 years old before I realized that my dolls and stuffed animals did not have personalities and feelings. When I was a kid, Dad always made my toys come alive. They all talked, told stories, sang songs, and danced. Some had different voices and accents. I remember being absolutely convinced as a child that my toys were real.

So it seems quite fitting that Dad would come across a groundhog puppet while Christmas shopping and decide that it was the perfect gift for me. "Groundhog," as I've uncreatively dubbed him, has been sitting in my apartment for the month of January. Dad has asked me a couple times on the phone if I've taken him to school to share with my kids. The answer has always been "not yet." But what better day to take dear Groundhog to school than Groundhog Day? Let me tell you, it was his day to shine. Here he is making friends with my students (in my new classroom!!). Joy took the photos for me.
Lest anyone think that Groundhog neglected his duties because of all the excitement on his big day, rest assured. He took a look outside, and unlike his buddy in Pennsylvania, he saw his shadow. Looks like it's 6 more weeks of winter here in Korea.

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

New Classes and Rice Krispie Treat Success

It's only Wednesday, and already, there is so much news to share this week. First, I started two new preschool classes on Monday. Each class has one of my old students and four new students. My old students help me out a lot by leading the class and showing the others how things are done. Here we are on the first day of English school! (These photos remind me a little of a police line-up.)
Along with two new classes, I got my own classroom on Monday. I'm so excited! The room I've been using is mostly for adults and middle school students. My friend Joy and I would have to push the big tables and chairs aside and set up the little tables and chairs before class. It's not a nice room for little kids. It's actually pretty stark--nothing to inspire the imaginations of my little students. I did a happy dance when Joy and I put the alphabet posters up on the wall of my new classroom. It's still desperately in need of decoration. I guess that will keep me busy for awhile! Now that I have my own classroom, I can also move my things from the tiny corner I've been occupying in the cramped "Teachers' Room." Another thing I love about my room is that besides the teachers' room, it's the only interior room in our school. That means in winter, it's nice and toasty, while all the other rooms can be quite cold, especially first thing in the morning. Ordinarily, I'd prefer a window and natural light, but for now I'm really happy with the warmth.

In this photo, my friend Catherine and some of the 3rd and 4th graders prove that the rice krispie treats were a success, despite the questionable marshmallows and cereal.


I went back to the endodontist yesterday. The tooth is still sensitive but not painful anymore.

18 appointments: $78.31

Saturday, January 27, 2007

Marshmallow (Mis)adventures

It's been an insanely busy week. Tuesday and Thursday were both twelve hours days at school. It's the end of the month, so progress reports are due for each student. This involves writing an entire page explaining everything that we've covered in class in the past month, comments on each student's performance, behavior, attendance, etc., and personalized goals for the month ahead. It's a huge task, but it is very helpful to spend time thinking about each student individually.

Most of my students are truly outstanding, and those reports fly by. Others are a little more challenging and take more time, but I figure those are the students I need to spend some extra time thinking about anyway. I ratted a couple of kids out for never doing their homework, asking to go to the bathroom every class period, and most of all TALKING, TALKING, TALKING.

I ratted one of my kindergartners out for giving answers to the other kids. I love this little boy's enthusiasm. It seems to radiate from him. However, he never lets anyone else (teacher included) get a word in edgewise. Whatever the activity, he just jumps out of his chair (literally) to participate. He's very bright and ahead of the other students in the class. We begin each class with a few minutes of conversation. He has an uncanny knack for answering questions before they've been asked. A typical morning goes something like this. (Picture 5-year-old Jimmy literally jumping out of his seat and shouting enthusiastically every time he says something.)

EMH: Good . . .
Jimmy: GOOD MORNING, TEACHER!
EMH: How are y. . .
Jimmy: I'M HAPPY!
EMH: Jimmy, you need to raise your h. . .
Jimmy: SOLLY!
EMH: Just wai . . .
Jimmy: YES, TEACHER! SOLLY!
EMH: What day . . .
Jimmy: TUESDAY!
EMH: What's the wea . . .
Jimmy: IT'S SUNNY!
EMH: Jimmy, be qui . . .
Jimmy: SOLLY!
EMH: What mon . . .
Jimmy: JANUARY!
EMH: JIMMY,IFYOUDON'TRAISEYOURHAND,YOUCANSITINTHEHALL! (Translation: Jimmy, if you don't raise your hand, you can sit in the hall!)
Jimmy: SOLLY!

He also loves to shout out answers when I call on other kids in the class. If it takes them a second or two to think about something, Jimmy will shout out the answer. I've tried all sorts of different things to get him to stop, all with varying degrees of failure, so the message has been dispatched to his parents. We'll see if that makes a difference.

I can't believe how quickly the days go by. The good news is that beginning this week, I am teaching full time! I'm thrilled. For the past few months, I've only been teaching part time, but my classes were spread out through the day. I'd end up spending all day at school for just a few classes. If I'm going to be at the school, I'm just as happy to be in the classroom. I love my students and have a lot of fun with them. I'm excited to meet my two new classes on Monday.

By now you might be wondering what any of this has to do with marshmallows. Since it's the end of the term, we're having a "good behavior" party on Monday. I saw some marshmallow-like things in the grocery store this week, so I decided to make rice krispie treats. The jury is still out on whether this endeavor was successful or not.

The first problem was that the marshmallows are slightly fruit flavored (yuck!). The second problem was that I couldn't find Rice Krispies. Instead, I found rice flakes, but it wasn't until I poured them into the melted marshmallows that I noticed they have sunflower seeds in them. Hmmm . . . fruity rice flake treats with sunflower seeds . . . I'm having a hard time getting my mind around this one.

There is a foreign grocery store in Seoul that carries regular marshmallows, but they're a bit pricey. I might go there on Monday and buy some anyway since I'll need to make something for my Tuesday classes, too. I'll see how well they go over on Monday. If the Monday kids like them, I'll make the same kind for my Tuesday classes. If they don't like them, I'll get real marshmallows. (On the other hand, kids here don't know what rice krispie treats are supposed to taste like, so maybe I can just pass these off as a strange American food. We'll see.)

Here are the funny-looking and slightly fruit-flavored marshmallows on my tiny stove:

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Snails and Pizza Trucks, Things That Make Me Laugh

One of the things I love about living here is that something makes me laugh everyday. It's either a cute kid saying or an awkward translation or just the humor of not having any idea what's going on a lot of the time.

On Thursday, I had a fun conversation with one of my bilingual 2nd grade classes. One of the girls had just returned from a tour of Europe with her family, so I had her tell about her trip for the first few minutes of class. Then I had the other kids ask her questions. Finally, it was my turn to ask a question. Korean tour companies are known to take groups only to Korean restaurants, so I asked "What did you eat on your trip?"

She blushed a little and with horrified expression on her face whispered, "In France, we ate . . . SNAILS!"

All the kids in the class grimaced and said "EEEEEWWWWWW!"

"Was this at a French restaurant?" I asked.

"Yes, they eat snails in France!"

All the kids started chattering to each other, "Snails. Eeeewwww."

Then it dawned on me, Koreans eat snails, too! "Hey, everyone, what are you eeeewwwing about? I've seen people eat snails here in Korea. I've eaten snails here in Korea. They sell them in the grocery store!"

One of the boys retorted, "But she ate FRENCH SNAILS."

Once again, there was a group "EEEEEWWWWW."

Then one of the girls said, "I don't like to eat snails. I like to pet them!"

And another girl from across the table chimed in, "Yes, I like to pet them, too."

While I was contemplating the image of two little girls petting snails, one of the boys added, "Snails make good pets." The rest of the class nodded in agreement. I'm not really sure how they came to that conclusion. I had a pet snail named James. He was marginally interesting but not something I'd describe as a good pet, but I let the subject drop.

"Did you eat any Korean food on your trip?" I asked.

"Yes. We went to a Korean restaurant and ate kimchi!" she replied.

All the other kids got big grins on their faces, and no exaggeration, they started cheering and clapping, "YAY KIMCHI!!!!!!" Now don't get me wrong. I like kimchi, but I don't have the love for the stuff that most Koreans do, and it made me laugh to hear the kids cheering for spicy pickled cabbage that most American kids wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole.

That's just one of the funny little moments that happens everyday. And here's another, the side of a delivery truck, as seen outside my apartment building yesterday morning:
Enough said.

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Earthquake!

I was sitting here at my computer in my 11th floor apartment about an hour ago when everything shook for a couple seconds. The news says it was a magnitude 4.8 earthquake in the northeastern part of the country. (Those of you in California might not be so impressed, but this was pretty big for me.) I called my friends, and they felt it, too. People are chatting about it on the internet. The emergency alert system has had announcements on TV saying that it's nothing to worry about, not that I understand these announcements. I only know this because my friends told me. For all I know, they could be saying that North Korea is attacking and we should all find a nuclear fallout shelter immediately.

Here's what's on the Korean websites:

It made me realize that I have absolutely no idea what you're supposed to do in the event of a serious earthquake. I remember fire drills, tornado drills, and bomb drills in school, but I don't remember earthquake drills. Maybe I just have the drills confused. Was that what we were doing when we sat under our desks and covered our heads? What should someone who lives on the 11th floor do if there is a serious earthquake? Stay put? Run down the stairs? Sit under my table and cover my head? Stop, drop, and roll? Maybe those of you in California (or anywhere!) can help me out here.

Friday, January 19, 2007

Toothpaste for People Who Don't Like Math

Finally somebody understands how I feel about the subject.

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Hope for Sore Teeth

I think I fired my dentist today. I sat in the teacher's room during my break this afternoon and popped some more Advil. This has been going on for far too long. I got on the internet, did a quick search for English-speaking endodontists in Korea, and had my friend Catherine make an appointment for me for this evening.

The office is in a very upscale area of Seoul, about an hour by subway from where I live. I'm totally impressed. The dentist studied in London and speaks excellent English. He had the most high tech dental equipment I've ever seen. He took two xrays, one of all my teeth and a close up of my problem tooth. The he examined my teeth and took a couple close-up photographs of them. He found two significant problems that the other dentist missed. He took over an hour to explain everything to me, answer all my questions, and lay out a course of treatment. The good news is that he says it can be treated. The bad news is that I need two crowns, not just one.

I don't think I'm going back to my other dentist. I feel reassured that this new dentist thinks he can actually do something to relieve the pain rather than just waiting while I spend everyday in agony (no exaggeration). I was the last patient of the evening at the new dentist's office. After my appointment, he even walked me down the street to the pharmacy to make sure I'd find it since I was in an unfamiliar part of the city. My friend Catherine went along with me this evening. Even though the dentist's English is excellent, it was helpful to have her along. Afterwards, I treated her to dinner.

Total cost of my hour-long appointment with the endodontist (includes 2 xrays): $6.81
Total cost of prescription antibiotics and painkillers to get me through the next week: $3.80
Total cost of all 15 appointments in Korea: $64.81