Monday, February 19, 2007

Happy Seollal (Lunar New Year)!

Happy Seollal! I spent the weekend with my friend Catherine, celebrating Seollal (Lunar New Year) with her family in Tongyeong (pop. 140,000), a small city by Korean standards on the southern coast of the country.

Here were are at the Express Bus Terminal in Seoul on Saturday morning. That's our bus behind us. Tongyeong or bust!It took us about 6 hours to get there. The traffic was pretty heavy because of the big holiday, but it kept moving the whole time. It was drizzly and foggy for most of the ride, so it was difficult to see the scenery.

Saturday evening, Catherine and I helped her mom cook food for the next day, and then her dad drove us all around the area. The whole time I was there, her parents couldn't remember my name, so they just called me "chin-gu" which means friend. That was fine with me. Here are Catherine and her mom and dad at one of the lookout points.Here's a panoramic view of the islands off the coast. Thanks, Ted, for fusing the images together for meCatherine's mom had been given a box of oranges as a Seollal gift, and she was very pleased with them, so she asked me to take a picture. These aren't just any oranges, though. They're special, huge oranges that are grown on Jeju Island, way off the southern tip of Korea. They sell for about $10 an orange. Her mom gave me one of them to take home with me. I plan to take it to school to share with Joy since I tend to get sick from eating oranges. I was really touched by the gift, though, and have to say it's the prettiest orange I've ever seen.Saturday night Catherine's dad wanted to talk to me because he'd never actually met a foreigner before. He doesn't speak any English, so Catherine had to interpret. He wanted to tell me all about Korean customs and politics. He seems to think that all Western cultures are pretty much the same, much like many Americans think that all Asian cultures are pretty much the same. I realized at that point that I was not only representing my family and community and country, but to this man, the entire Western world! That's a lot of responsibility.

Sunday was the actual New Year's Day. Catherine's parents got up early and set up a table in honor of their ancestors and bowed before it. Catherine and I were still asleep, but they left the table set up so I could see it and take some pictures. It was a really beautiful display of fresh and dried fruit, fish, rice, makoli (rice wine), and other food. We ate a wonderful breakfast of some of the food we had helped Catherine's mom prepare the night before--fish, rice, vegetables, and soup. Some of Catherine's aunts, uncles, and cousins showed up at the house. It was really funny to see their reactions when they noticed a foreigner in the house. Several of them actually did a double-take. Catherine's middle school aged cousin was the funniest. She looked at me, ran in another room, peeked her head around the door, said hi, giggled, and then disappeared again.

The men went to the ancestors' grave for a memorial, and the women stayed back at the house. We ate some more, cleaned up, ate, watched tv, ate, slept, ate, and then Catherine and I decided to go out for a walk. We ended up taking a walking tour of the whole city. The weather was beautiful, and it was a really enjoyable afternoon.

Our first stop was at the fish tanks by the harbor. Much of the country's fresh fish comes from the area around Tongyeong, and the city's economy depends largely on the fishing industry. Here, Catherine looks into one of the massive holding tanks for freshly caught fish.And here the fish looks back at us!Our next stop was Chungryeolsa, a shrine dedicated to Admiral Yi Soon-shin, a naval leader of the late 1500s. He is beloved and revered by Koreans for being victorious in all twenty-some-odd naval battles he commanded, including victories over the Japanese, and for the innovation of turtle ships (more on that topic later). Tongyeong is especially proud of Admiral Yi Soon-shin because several of the battles happened in that region.

Here we are on the grounds of the shrine. The trees behind us are special camellia trees that are over 300 years old.And here we are walking up the steps on the shrine grounds to the gated entrance to the shrine itself.
Here's the inside of the shrine.
Next we went to Saebyeong-gwan, which was the naval command center of Korea's southern provinces from 1597 to 1896. This particular structure was built in 1603 and last renovated in 1973.From Saebyeong-gwan, we continued our walking tour and passed this stone guardian figure. Guardian figures have been used in Korea for centuries to ward off disease and evil spirits from villages. I kinda see a resemblance between the two characters in this picture.Next we walked down to the harbor and saw a replica of the famed Korean turtle ship! Turtle ships were used from the 15th to 18th centuries and are credited for aiding Korean victory over the Japanese in sea battles. I'm all for turtle ships.Here's the head of the "turtle" with two seagulls sitting on its nose. (No one can tell me what kind of turtle it's supposed to be. If you ask me, it looks a little like the luck dragon from The Neverending Story.)
Inside the turtle ship is a statue of our dear friend, Admiral Yi Soon-shin. Here Catherine and I are doing our Admiral impressions.
And here we're trying on traditional naval hats inside the turtle ship.From the turtle ship, we walked along the harbor to Nammangsan Park. Here are the fishing boats along the way.Nammangsan Park is the hill in the background of this picture.From Nammangsan Park there was a beautiful view of the city, islands, and mountains. Here's a view of the harbor.This is another panorama that my friend Ted created from three separate photos that I took, including the harbor shot above. Thank you again, Ted!Finally we headed back to Catherine's parents' house for dinner, shown here. Notice the fish head soup. Yummy!After dinner we went out with some of Catherine's friends from middle and high school for drinks and more dinner. They were really fun but spoke about as much English as I speak Korean, so our conversations were limited. Catherine was a good interpreter, but mostly, I just listened to them speaking to each other in Korean. We boarded the bus this morning to return to Seoul. It was another 6 hour drive. The traffic was heavier than it was on Saturday but never completely stopped. I'm glad to be back to my apartment, but I'm also really thankful for the experience this weekend, for a glimpse into a Korean family's life during the holidays, for a tour of a new place, and for friends who have opened their lives to a stranger. I hope to be able to return the hospitality shown to me someday . . . or to pass it on.

Friday, February 16, 2007

새해 복 많이 받으세요

Happy Lunar New Year!! I'm off with Catherine to her hometown first thing in the morning. I'll be back on Monday.

새해 복 많이 받으세요
(Saehae bok manhi baduhseyo, which means "Happy New Year!")

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Happy Valentine's Day!

It's been another busy week. How can it possibly be Wednesday night already? I went out with my friends Tuesday evening after work. Joy's daughter Chloe came along with her mini Polaroid camera, so we took a couple fun shots.

First, here I am with Joy and Catherine.

And here with Catherine and Mark.

Earlier this week I did a little scavenger hunt around Seoul and put together Valentine's Day goody bags with foreign candy for Joy, Catherine, and Chloe. Here are Joy and Catherine with their goodies. The photo was their idea. (Admire my bulletin boards in the background.)
I like holidays because they're a great excuse to do art projects. I love art projects, aside from the fact that my classroom looks like a natural disaster area by the end of the day. Here are some of my angels showing off their Valentine's butterflies.

Working hard or hardly working? It's hard to tell.

In other news, I went back to the endodontist on Tuesday. My tooth still hasn't healed enough to finish the work that needs to be done, but most of the time, it feels fine these days. I go back again in two weeks. 19 appointments: $84.31.

This weekend is Seolnal, the Lunar New Year, which is one of the biggest holidays in Korea. Catherine has invited me to go with her to her parents' house in the far southern part of the country and spend the holiday with them. It'll be new territory for me. I'm excited about seeing another part of the country and also getting an inside look at a Korean holiday.

The bad news is that I feel like I'm coming down with a cold. It's no surprise because it's been going around for about a week and a half now. I've also had a couple students come down with pink eye this week. It has me disinfecting the tables, chairs, scissors, glue sticks, crayons, doorknobs, and everything else in the classroom that is touched by small hands.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

On Top of the World (or at least a big rock)


I inaugurated my new hiking boots (Christmas present from Mom and Dad) today. I've been wearing them around town to break them in, but this was their first trip up a mountain, and they did their job very well. It was a beautiful, sunny Saturday with the temperature close to 40. I took the Seoul subway as far north as it goes. I was about 20 miles from North Korea. I headed up this direction because it was new territory for me and because it's the area where my dad was stationed in the army in the 70s. I wanted to see what it looked like. I didn't, however, go near the army posts. It was still interesting to see the landscape and think that 30+ years ago, he was looking at the same mountains.

There was a great mountain park within easy walking distance from the train station. First, here's the entrance gate to the park. (I actually turned around and took this picture on my way down the mountain, looking back uphill and into the park.)

I followed a trail halfway up the mountain to a little Buddhist temple. One of the many things I love about Korea is that temples and mountains almost always go together. I like to visit both, and I especially like to photograph both, so it's like a two-for-one deal for me! Here's the temple.

One section of the temple is built under this huge rock. Notice the entrance in the bottom left corner of the picture.

They were having prayers in the temple under the rock when I got there. I generally don't like to take pictures during religious services, but as I stood there watching, a woman kept motioning toward me, saying, I think, that I should take a picture. I was sure to turn the flash off, but I was so anxious about potentially disrupting the prayers that I moved the camera too soon, hence the blurriness. Here's what it looks like on the inside, with a monk praying at the altar.

Also under the big rock is an artesian well. Here's a dragon who gives water.
From the temple, I continued up the mountain. The trail started to get a little more difficult. The only indication that it's even supposed to be a trail is the railing in some places.
Here's the view from 3/4 of the way up.

And, of course, the view from the top, looking back down the valley that I hiked up.

The photo at the top of this post is from the top of the mountain, looking down on the world. I got a really late start on my hike today, so by the time I made it to the top, I didn't have enough time to continue along the ridgeline and had to go back down the way I came so I'd be back in town before dark. I definitely plan to get an earlier start and go back again someday.

I'm a real wimp when it comes to cold weather. Even though it's been an extremely mild winter, I haven't been hiking in a while. On my way back down the mountain, my legs were starting to feel like spaghetti. Not a good sign of things to come, I thought. Rather than heading straight home after my hike, I decided to give my aching muscles a break at a big "jjimjilbang" (public bathhouse) in Seoul. This is another thing I love about Korea. I ate a great dinner (dolsot albap=rice with veggies and fish eggs served sizzling in a hot stone bowl), soaked in the hot tubs for a while, sweated in the salt fomentation room (you lie down on a bed of salt rocks in a very hot room), and then soaked the sweat off in the hot tubs again. My legs are thanking me after that tough climb this afternoon!

I have a couple more photos, but blogspot is being tempermental and won't let me add them tonight, so I'll try again tomorrow. It's well past bedtime for this tired but very happy hiker.

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

S'mores!

After making rice krispie treats with questionable marshmallows last week, I decided on my next trip to a foreign grocery store to splurge on a big bag of REAL marshmallows. I was talking with my Korean friends about the joys of marshmallows when one of them asked me what was going on in pictures and movies she's seen of kids sticking marshmallows in campfires. It occurred to me that s'mores are one of the finer points of American culture, and I'd be doing my Korean friends a huge disservice by not sharing it with them.

Originally, I was just going to have Joy, Catherine, and Joy's middle-school-aged daughter Chloe come over after school for a snack. However, we're now teaching until 9:00 every night, and by the time we're finished, we're ready for dinner, not marshmallows. This morning I made a huge pot of minestrone soup and invited everyone over for dinner tonight. They always like it when I make Western food--or at least they're really polite, eat it, and say they like it. The soup turned out pretty well, but the s'mores were the highlight of the evening. (Since I know several children read my blog, I just have to say this: Kids, don't do this without your parents in the kitchen!)

Joy, Chloe, and Catherine concentrate on toasting the marshmallows to perfection:
Yours Truly expertly pieces the s'mores together while leaving the gas range unattended in the background: Based on the smiles, I'd say s'mores were a hit.
Joy took this cool reflection shot of her, Chloe, and me with the city out the window.Good friends. Good food. Good fun.

Sunday, February 04, 2007

Happy Birthday to Dad! Happy Anniversary to Me!

Happy Birthday, Dad! I hope you have a good day. Go, Bears!

Today also marks 1 year since I stepped off the airplane for the first time in the Republic of Korea. What a year! I went out with my friends on Friday night to celebrate. Life is good.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

G is for GROUNDHOG

I think I was about 12 years old before I realized that my dolls and stuffed animals did not have personalities and feelings. When I was a kid, Dad always made my toys come alive. They all talked, told stories, sang songs, and danced. Some had different voices and accents. I remember being absolutely convinced as a child that my toys were real.

So it seems quite fitting that Dad would come across a groundhog puppet while Christmas shopping and decide that it was the perfect gift for me. "Groundhog," as I've uncreatively dubbed him, has been sitting in my apartment for the month of January. Dad has asked me a couple times on the phone if I've taken him to school to share with my kids. The answer has always been "not yet." But what better day to take dear Groundhog to school than Groundhog Day? Let me tell you, it was his day to shine. Here he is making friends with my students (in my new classroom!!). Joy took the photos for me.
Lest anyone think that Groundhog neglected his duties because of all the excitement on his big day, rest assured. He took a look outside, and unlike his buddy in Pennsylvania, he saw his shadow. Looks like it's 6 more weeks of winter here in Korea.