Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Overdue Weekend Update

This weekend I joined up with some new friends, Jackie and Toby, for a hike in a city about two hours by train south of Seoul. We started off at the bronze Buddha statue at Taejosan. It's big. No kidding big. His ear is almost two meters long. To be fair, he does have disproportionately large ears, but even still, this is one huge statue.
We climbed up the mountain behind the statue. Jackie and Toby had been up there the week before and saw another mountain off in the distance, so our goal that day was to hike over to it. To get there we walked down into the valley on the other side of the mountain. We cut across this tiny village to continue in the direction of the mountain in the distance. The village reminded me a little of the town I lived in when I first came to Korea, even though this village was much smaller. We passed a little kid playing in the yard of one of the houses. He pointed at us and yelled to his mother (in Korean, of course) "Look! They're not Korean!" I guess they don't get many foreign tourists there. Here are some photos that Jackie took of the village:
Once we were across the village, it was time to climb up another hill. At one point, we lost the trail, so we had to do a little bit of bushwhacking. We ended up in the middle of a rice field. It was already harvested, so it was like a really big mud puddle with some straw in it. From the rice field, we found a trail that continued up the mountain. On our way to the ridge, we passed several graves, but one in particular was interesting because of the statues and view.Finally we made it to the peak. Here's triumphant Toby and tired EMH:
And Toby and Jackie at the stone marking the top of Seonggeosan at 529 meters:It was a little hazy, but the view was still nice:
From the peak, we followed trail signs for "Manilsa," which means "10,000 days temple." (I figured out the meaning of the name by myself. It was a very proud moment. I consider it a milestone in my endeavor to understand something about this language!) We figured a temple would at least be near a town, and from there, we could take a bus or taxi back to the city we started in. A couple kilometers later, we arrived at the temple. This was the water tank outside the temple. I'm not sure if the pictures are supposed to be Buddha or just an ordinary monk, but I thought it was very cute, as far as water tanks go.
The temple grounds were very small, certainly nothing spectacular, but they were pretty nonetheless. It was late afternoon, and the sunlight gave everything this warm, soft glow on a very brisk fall day.
The temple is believed to be from the Goryeo Kingdom (918-1392 CE). One of the really interesting things at the temple is the pagoda, which is just left of center in the photo above. They aren't sure how old it is, but according to the Korea National Tourism Organization, it "demonstrates well the bold and unsophisticated style of both the Silla and Baekje Kingdoms." The Silla Kingdom existed from 57 BCE to 935 CE, and the Baekje Kingdom existed from 18 BCE to 660 CE, so if it's from one of them, that makes it REALLY OLD. One of the most interesting things about the temple was a Buddha carving in a crevice with a huge slab of rock as a slanting roof.We headed down the road from Manilsa, feeling pretty confident that a town wouldn't be too far away. As we were walking, a car drove up behind us. Toby motioned for the driver to stop to ask him how far the town was. The driver insisted that we get in the car, and he gave us a ride into town. The town turned out to be 5 kilometers away, so he saved us a lot of walking. I felt a little bad that the only thing we had to give him as a thank-you was an orange. From the town, we got on a bus and were back in the city we started in 15 minutes later.

I said good-bye to Jackie and Toby and then bought a train ticket back to the Seoul area. I had another adventure actually getting home, but that's a story for another time. This post is long enough!

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

Mystery Medicine

My friend recommended the dentist whose office is right in my building, so yesterday morning, I paid him a visit. (Apparently you don't make appointments for initial consults with a doctor or dentist here but just show up.) Now, I'm not a huge fan of going to the dentist anyway, though the folks at Dr. Painter's office in Galena always made it as painless and pleasant as possible, but I especially don't like it when it's difficult to communicate. Fortunately, the dentist I saw spoke enough English that I could more or less understand what he was saying to me. The office itself was spacious and well-equipped and looked pretty much like a dental office in the U.S.

The dentist and someone else (an assistant maybe?) looked in my mouth, poked a few places (OUCH!!), and then sent me off for an xray. The woman who did the xray jammed the little piece of film in my mouth really hard! I've never had an xray hurt before. Then back to the chair. The dentist looked at the xray, poked my tooth a few more times (OUCH again!), and told me he was giving me a prescription. If that doesn't clear up the problem, then "maybe root canal." WHAT?! He's gotta be kidding! I'm counting on this prescription to take care of things. Otherwise, it's second opinion time for me.

I stopped at the registration desk to pay before I left. The woman said "Sam chon o bek won," which means 3,500 won (about $4). I thought I must have misunderstood her and handed her 35,000 won (about $40). She laughed and handed me back the three 10,000 won bills and change. So my walk-in visit to the dentist, including an xray was about $4.

Then I headed to the pharmacy across the street to fill my prescription. This is what I was given, with verbal instructions on how to take them:It cost about $2 to get the prescription filled. The writing on the red stuff says "Gargle. Do not eat." I think it's a mouthwash, so I've been swishing it in my mouth and not gargling it. I tried to ask the pharmacist, but she didn't know the difference between "swish" and "gargle." The pill packets just have the name and phone number of the pharmacy on them. No drug names, no directions. It's a little disconcerting. I like to know what I'm taking and why! So I get to take one of these little mystery packets three times a day until Thursday and then go back to the dentist if it's not better for "maybe root canal." I'm going home in December. I think I might try to tough it out until I can see a dentist without the language barrier.

Sunday, November 12, 2006

Fall Colors

I have a nasty headache and toothache tonight, so I'm just going to post a couple photos. The leaves are just past their peak right now. It's been a pretty fall. Here are a couple snapshots of the beautiful fall colors.

First, a ginkgo tree. These are just about everywhere. They're a brilliant yellow right now, which is really pretty. However, ginkgo fruits are all over the sidewalks, and they're particularly smelly and messy. They remind me of the walkway to the library at Knox!



This is the town I live in, with my favorite mountain park in the background. The mountains are a lovely rust color right now. There was actually a little bit of snow on the very top last Tuesday morning.



I went hiking in another city on Saturday with some friends. I'll post some pictures of that later on this week. For now, I'm going to go to bed early! I get to experience a visit to a Korean dentist office tomorrow. Oh, the excitement!

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Weekend update

Life has been extremely busy for me. My teaching load is up, which I really like, but that means that I no longer have my mornings free, and I'm frequently at the school until 8 PM. Still, I can't believe how quickly the time flies by. I'm getting over a nasty cold, so I get tired really easily these days, too.

This weekend was interesting. On Saturday, I met Kathy, my roommate from Wesley Mission School, in a city called Suwon. Suwon has an excellent fortress that is on UNESCO's list of World Heritage sites. We visited the palace and then took a dragon trolley (see the photo below) around the fortress wall. I'm hoping to go back sometime and walk the perimeter of the fortress (5.2 km).

The palace:
The dragon trolley:In honor of my dad, my life-long teacher of Fort Appreciation 101, I present Hwaseong Fortress.I took the day off from my usual responsibilities at the church on Sunday and spent the day at a youth festival in Seoul. I helped at a tent that had displays and activities to educate middle school kids about North Korean refugees living in South Korea. I got to meet some university students who came to South Korea from North Korea a few years ago. They didn't speak much English, and we were pretty busy, so I didn't really have a chance to talk with them, which was a little disappointing.

The tent I worked in had maps displayed on tables showing the routes that refugees take from North Korea. Since they can't cross the DMZ, they go north from North Korea into China. From there, some go to Mongolia and then to South Korea. Others cross China and get to Thailand, which offers them some assistance in getting to South Korea. Still others cross China to Vietnam, travel through Vietnam to Cambodia, and then go to SK from Cambodia. A few get assistance from embassies or human rights groups in Beijing. The entire time they're in China, they're illegal and have to be careful not to be caught or they'll be returned to North Korea. The whole journey takes about two years. It's an incredibly long trip. Many times, they have to work illegally in order to earn money to continue traveling. They usually don't speak the language of the countries they're traveling through. I can't even begin to imagine it.

When the kids came to our tent, they were given 100 dominoes. They had to stand the dominoes up on the map along the refugees' route. They had 5 minutes and had to use all 100 dominoes. Since the maps were relatively small, in order to use all the dominoes, they had to take a circuitous route, not unlike that of many refugees. If they knocked any dominoes over while setting them up, it symbolized setbacks or even the return of themselves or friends or family members to North Korea. Once all the dominoes were standing up along the route, they would knock the first one over. If the dominoes didn't collapse along the whole route, it meant that they didn't make it to South Korea and were stuck somewhere else. The kids just had fun playing with the dominoes, but I thought the effect was pretty gripping. Here are a couple photos. The weird blue tint is due to being under a blue tent on a really sunny day.

Friday, November 03, 2006

Happy Halloween!

We had a mini Halloween party at school on Monday and Tuesday. The kids sort of know about Halloween. It's not celebrated here, except in English classes, but most of the kids have at least heard about it. The kindergartners and preschoolers made paper masks and jack-o-lanterns and then went trick-or-treating from classroom to classroom. Everyone was happy. What's not to like about free candy? It's amazing how quickly even the really quiet kids learned to say "trick or treat." Maybe I need to bribe them with candy everyday. On the other hand, small children with a sugar high is something I could do without. Maybe I'll bribe them but not give them the candy until just before I return them to their mothers. Now, there's an idea!

Saturday, October 28, 2006

Palace Tour

It has been another busy week here. We write progress reports for each student every month, and this was the week that they were due. I have 33 students, excluding my adult class, and I write a good paragraph for each student. It's a lot of writing, but it's really good for me to spend that time thinking about the strengths and weaknesses of each of the kids I work with. It helps me to tailor my lessons for the coming month to meet individual needs.

Today a friend and I went to Changdeokgung ("gung" means "palace") in Seoul. It's listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a crisp fall day here, and the palace grounds were beautiful. The battery didn't last long on my camera, so I was only able to take a couple pictures. There is an exquisite garden behind the palace, but our tickets didn't include the tour to see it, so we'll have to do that another time.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Mmmmm . . . samgyeopsal and kimchi

It's my birthday! In Korea, the birthday girl/boy treats, so I took my friends Joy and Catherine our for dinner. We ate sam-gyeop-sal, which is really fatty (and therefore good) pork that's cooked right on your table. You take a piece of meat, and dip it in a sauce. Then you put that on a lettuce leaf and add grilled garlic and kimchi and stick the whole thing in your mouth. It's good stuff!

Here's Joy cutting the kimchi with scissors:


And here we are waiting for the food to cook so we can eat! Don't you like how the guy in the poster behind me looks like he's toasting us?


It was a good day. My princesses brought a cake to school for me. They all helped me blow out the candles. Then we ate birthday cake out of paper cups with chop sticks. No one here understands why I think that's a funny way to eat cake. Here are some very cute (and silly) princesses:

Tuesday, October 17, 2006

Penpal Project and Cute Kindergartners

We recently started a penpal project with the second graders at Galena Primary School in Illinois. Here are my students proudly showing off the first letter they received from their American penpals. They were so excited. They especially liked getting the pictures. They can't wait to write their next letter, but mean "Ellen-teacher" is making them wait two whole weeks since we have other things we have to cover in class, too.
And here are my kindergartners proudly showing off the last page of their textbooks. You can't tell from the picture, but it's a certificate showing that they've completed the level. They are so proud of themselves! Our new book is entitled Intensive Reading. What a title for these little munchkins!I don't remember what was so funny in the second picture, but I like the result. That's the class from which the "fat pig" comment came. They're always entertaining.

Monday, October 16, 2006

Air Raid Siren and a Field Trip to the Zoo

At about 2 PM, a really loud siren sounded throughout the city. All traffic stopped. People outside stood still and stared. I was inside at the time, looking out the window for some sign of danger. "What's that?!" I asked my friend.

"Air raid, Ellen. No problem, no problem," she replied as she went about her work.

"AIR RAID?!"

"Yes, no problem."

"NO PROBLEM?!"

"Yes, yes. No problem. Test."

I breathed a big sigh of relief. It's amazing what a difference that little word "test" made in that conversation. The whole drill lasted about 10 minutes and then there was another siren signaling that it was over. Apparently, in some parts of Seoul, people saw military jets and helicopters overhead. The Korean government has air raid drills scheduled for the 15th (or thereabouts) of every month, but most of the time, they skip them. I hadn't heard one since I've been here. Apparently they put special flags out to let people know that they will be conducting the test. I didn't notice them today. I guess with all the news from North Korea this week, they decided it was a good time to start up again.


On Saturday, we took the first grade class on a field trip to the zoo. I don't generally teach that class, but their teacher didn't want to go, so I was asked to chaperone.

They had a worksheet paper divided into six different sections with the headings: eating, sleeping, swimming, flying, running, and playing. They had to make a list of what animals were doing what activity. Here are some students reporting that the flamingoes are sleeping:
When we arrived at the elephant habitat, one of the elephants was picking up dust and dropping it on its back. One of the students looked puzzled and then shouted, "ELEPHANT, WHAT ARE YOU DOING?" The elephant declined to comment.

It was a good day at the zoo. Everyone had fun, and it was great for the kids to use English outside of the classroom. Here are a few more pictures.

"Ellen-teacher" helping a student with his worksheet:
Here's the third photo from our zoo field trip. This is the first grade class, minus five students and plus three teachers and two little sisters. Note that I didn't get the memo about wearing a red hat. I have one, too!
Finally, here's one for the youth group and Janis!

Tuesday, October 10, 2006

North Korean Nuclear Test

I've received a few email messages asking how people here are responding to the North Korean nuclear test. It's a little surprising to me that the majority of South Koreans I know are unconcerned. More or less, they don't worry about North Korea. One friend explained to me that people in South Korea have lived with the threat of North Korea for so long that worrying about it would simply paralyze them. I asked a couple Korean friends what they think about the nuclear test. One hadn't heard about it and didn't have an opinion. The other said it was a little scary but not enough to make her do anything differently.

The expats I know seem more concerned. The Korean stock market fell yesterday, immediately after news of the test was released, and the won, which had been quite strong, dropped against the U.S. dollar. Some people ran to the bank and sent their money home before it goes lower, but that's the most drastic action I've heard anyone take.

Here's the statement the U.S. Embassy in Seoul sent out to the American expat community:

"On Monday, October 9, U.S. and South Korean intelligence services detected a seismic event at a suspected nuclear test site in North Korea. North Korea has claimed it conducted an underground nuclear test, but these reports are unconfirmed. The U.S. Embassy in Seoul is monitoring the situation closely and has been in continuous contact with South Korean government officials. As of the evening of October 9, the Embassy has received no information from South Korean officials or any other source indicating that there are health dangers that pose a risk to any areas in South Korea. The U.S. Embassy in Seoul continues to operate normally and to provide services to the public during regular business hours. In the event of any type of emergency, the Embassy will notify the American community immediately."

Sunday, October 08, 2006

More Crowds

I headed to the palaces today, only to find that EVERYONE else in Seoul also thought that would be a good thing to do today. I took a look at the lines to get tickets and decided I'd come back another day, but first I snapped a couple pictures.
The main entrance to Gyeongbokgung, the largest palace in Seoul
Standing in the main entrance of Gyeongbokgung and looking at the crowds in front of the secondary entrance. This is as far as I could go without a ticket.After deciding to forego the palaces, I stopped by a Buddhist temple called Jogyesa on my way back to the subway station. The main hall was quite crowded, but I think that's because only half of it was open due to renovations. The temple grounds were pretty quiet and a nice reprieve from the busy-ness of everything else. Here are some photos.
The main hall
Where you leave your shoes when you enter the main hall
A detail of the beautifully decorated exterior walls of the main hall
This lacebark pine tree at the side of the temple is over 520 years old! These trees are native to northern China, but there are a few of them in Korea. The largest, and therefore oldest since they are very slow-growing trees, are designated as national monuments, including this one.

Friday, October 06, 2006

추석 잘 보내세요 ("Chuseok Jalbonaeseyo" or "Happy Chuseok")

Today is Chuseok, the Korean version of Thanksgiving. It's the second most important holiday of the year in Korea, the first being Lunar New Year. If your computer can read Korean, you're in luck and can see the title of this post. Otherwise, you probably just see a bunch of squares.

Since it's a big holiday, almost everything was closed today . . . and yesterday and will be tomorrow. However, I read on the Korean National Tourism Organization website that a few tourist destinations would be open today. Feeling much better and wanting to resurrect some of my vacation, I hopped on the subway and rode the 6 or so stops south to the city of Suwon, where I got on a bus headed for the Korean Folk Village which is a huge outdoor museum of traditional Korean life. It was an interesting way to spend the day. Though there was more to see, I left after three hours since battling the crowds was draining my energy quickly. Unfortunately, my camera battery died after the first hour, but I did manage to get a few snapshots.

In case you can't read the sign, it says "Beware of Donkey." He looks like a menacing beast, doesn't he?I have no idea what the sign says.These are kimchi pots with peppers drying in the sun. It was really warm today--around 80°F--so I imagine they dried pretty well.Here is an awesome totem-pole-esque statue. They also had some excellent wooden carvings, but my camera battery died before I got to them. I took a picture of the wooden carvings with my film camera, but it will be a while before I have the film developed.A rice field with a scarecrow wearing a "hanbok" or traditional Korean dress:I have two more days left in my vacation, and I'm not going to let them go to waste. Tomorrow is still part of the Chuseok holiday, so lots of things will be closed again. However, the palaces are open, so I may visit them. There is also a nice lake near Seoul that I've been wanting to investigate. Vacation, here I come! 추석 잘 보내세요! ('Chuseok jalbonaeseyo!")

Thursday, October 05, 2006

More snapshots of my very small apartment

The "living room" (Youth group members, notice the photo on top of the television.)



The closet, "desk" and "kitchen", as seen from the far wall of the apartment.



The bathroom. There was no good angle to take a picture of my little bathroom. The mirror makes the bathroom look twice as big as it is. Don't be fooled. It's tiny. See the reflection of the showerhead on the wall? Right under that is where they wanted to put a washing machine. Ha!



My "dresser" behind my bed, with annotations. It's actually not a dresser but the cabinet for the air conditioner. Don't see your photo? Then send one to me!



And that, my friends, concludes the photo tour of my tiny apartment. It measures 5 meters (from the door to the window) by 3.5 meters (wall to wall). That's 188.4 square feet. That includes the bathroom and closets. I'm not complaining. I like it.

Where I've been the past five days

Home, sweet home (away from home, that is). This is my little apartment. It's small, but I like it! Since I was cooped up here for four entire days with a nasty stomach bug, I thought I'd post a picture. I'm glad to report that as of yesterday, I'm feeling better. I still have a headache, and I feel completely drained of energy, but I'm definitely noticing an improvement now that my intestines have given up their protest of whatever bug I caught. Speaking of which, my bathroom was immediately to my right when I took this picture. That's my "kitchen" to the left. I was standing with my back against the door.

Sunday, October 01, 2006

A Seriously Unhappy Non-Camper

I'm supposed to leave first thing in the morning for my big hiking trip across a national park in the southern part of the country. I've been looking forward to this for weeks. My friends here are all tired of hearing me talk about it, but guess what . . . I'm sick! I woke up at 2 AM on Saturday with yucky flu-like symptoms that have only managed to get worse this weekend. I am not at all happy. I haven't been able to eat, and even taking the trash out required too much energy, so I know there is no way I'll be up for anything strenuous in two days. I can't even begin to say how disappointed I am. More later. I'm going to go back to bed to sulk for a while longer.